Badlands National Park --> St. Paul

I was only lukewarm about visiting the badlands, but I had forgotten the beauty of the national park http://www.nps.gov/badl/index.htm, until we arrived at the gate shortly before ten this morning. September is a wonderful time, because the weather is warm but the tourists are fare less numerous, and we enjoyed a lovely ride through the park, exiting the car to take pictures and enjoy the fresh morning air.

My favorite sighting was a sign warning of rattlesnakes! No chance of me venturing onto the grass, or off the designated man-made path.

We stopped for lunch at a McDonald's in Chamberlain, SD, close to the Missouri River. After lunch, we headed for Sioux Falls, where we were to stop for the night. Or, at least, that was my intention. It was only late afternoon, and Bob wanted to press on. In the late afternoon sunshine, we slipped across the border into Minnesota, past the wind farms and golden fields, harvests already complete. The Traverse seems to like a speed of 80mph (in SD, the limit is 75, 5 mph higher than I90 in Minnesota), and we quickly reached the turn north on 35.

We had thought that we would stop for dinner near Albert Lea, after hitting 35, but all restaurants were behind us. we got gas a few miles north of the intersection of 80 & 35, and pulled out a bag of chips that Bob had brought from home last week. I, who scorn such snacks, dipped enthusiastically into the bag and was very happy that such an unhealthy non-food had made its way into the vehicle.

Darkness fell quickly around Lakeville. We arrived home before 8:30 and unpacked the car. Dirty laundry lies at the bottom of the basement stairs. Minou the cat has forgiven us for our long absence. We're happy to be home!

Custer State Park and Iron Mountain Road

I wasn't very optimistic entering Custer State Park, despite the promise of buffalo in the southern part of the park, awaiting roundup. We didn't see the buffalo, but fortunately I have been here before and I wasn't too disapppointed. I did enjoy the pronghon (which I had somewhat tentatively identified as "elk" ) and, especially, the herd of donkeys. They are much as I remember them, though maybe even more brazen. I'm surprised that people dare to feed and pet wild animals, but it was fun to watch.

The day was beautifully sunny, and the high prairie was starting to show signs of fall, gold rather than rust or red. We rode up to about a 5200 feet in altitude (something we notice now, though never before this trip) after leaving the park, on Iron Mountain Road where Bob had ridden with the boys on their summer motorcycle trip. It was all new for me, and he enjoyed showing me the lovely territory they had been through in July.

We were tired by five, and stopped at a Holiday Inn Express for the night. We just came back from a swim in the empty pool. The Green Bay Packers are beating the New Orleans Saint 42-27, with 10 minutes to go. Not looking forward to the first GBP-Vikes game this season!

We are less tired in the evening now, but will still be in bed shortly after 10. Back to central time tomorrow.

Wyoming to South Dakota

Not much traffic on the road this morning when we left Wheatland, heading into brilliant sunshine. Mile after mile of high prairie and unmitigated boredom. We wondered where the long trains, with boxcars full of coal, were coming from. The answer came at Wright, Wyoming. Black Thunder Mine, an eyesore of open pit mining on the side of the highway http://archcoal.com/aboutus/blackthunder.aspx. We learned later from a Sundance, Wyoming teacher at the pool that 300 million tons of coal are hauled out in boxcars every year, and that the mines stretch for miles. Seems disgraceful.

The landscape began to change when we turned east toward South Dakota. Finally, some trees. Then hills. Then the beautiful South Dakota landscape. Felt like home.

We had lunch in Custer City at an upscale type deli, where the potato buffalo cream soup was a little too rich and the turkey melt on rye was overly salty for my taste. No matter. I savored the dark Kansas beer and the rest was welcome.

Still Love the Minnesota Vikings ...

I wore my Vikings windbreaker yesterday (free from Sports Illustrated), and was amazed that it created so many opportunities for conversation. Because I was wearing that jacket, I met at least half a dozen people, including two ex-Minnesotans, one from Red Wing and the other from St. Paul's East Side.

When we were walking through the grounds of the Air Force Academy yesterday, I overheard a what seemed like a disparaging comment about the Vikings, from a man to his wife as they were walking in the opposite direction. I felt my irritation rise and I turned to look. The man looked at me, realizing that he'd been caught. "Green Bay Packers!", he shouted. "Pack poison is everywhere", I retorted. We both laughed.

I feel a little wistful this morning, knowing that tonight's GBP game inaugurating the NFL season will probably yield yet another win. Bob cheerfully claims (for the Nth time) that he is switching teams. The morning is cool and I think I'll wear my jacket to breakfast. Another day of adventure begins.

US Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs

The weather was chilly today. Several inches of snow fell on Pike's Peak yesterday, so it seems that we toured it just in time. We were among the few guests at the Hampton Inn near the US Air Force Academy last night. We showed up at the Academy shortly after it opened to visitors at 9 this morning, and the campus was quietly enveloped in fog. The grounds are lovely and beautifully maintained.

We watched the film, which seems more like a recruitment video than information for visitors to the Academy. We did meet a few cadets as we wandered between the Visitors' Center and the chapel, and were very impressed by their professionalism and welcoming attitude toward visitors. The chapel, in particular, was particularly lovely, with worship space for all religions. I would love to hear a concert in the main non-denominational chapel.

Garden of the Gods

A friend at work had recommended a visit to Garden of the Gods, and I was looking forward to some good photographs of the red rock formations.

I didn't realize the experience would be so spiritual. The visitors' center is busy, but large enough to accommodate crowds, and the day after Labor Day is not a high volume day. We drove through the park and then took one of the walking trails, paved and very easy to walk. People were quiet as they strolled, dwarfed by the rock formations above. The birds were active in a "getting ready for winter" kind of way. Little squirrels worked in the brush.

Rock climbers made their way up the cliffs. We sat quietly and a few drops of rain dampened our hair. The wind blew lightly. It was an afternoon respite in the presence of God.

Rocky Mountain Wildlife

My first purchases in Colorado were three trifold cards: Colorado wildlife, Birds of Colorado, Colorado Flowers and Plants. I've seen plenty of plants, though not as many wildflowers as I had hoped. I did have the exciting osprey sighting but have heard more birds that I've seen. Otherwise, the count is pretty dismal: deer grazing on the side of the freeway, in Nebraska near Wyoming; a rabbit in Nebraska; a couple of elk in the distance in Rocky Mountain National Park; a herd of elk (or maybe mule deer) at the entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park -- but I was a long way off and had to rely on Bob to take a picture.

Today, though, we saw a sad little scene on the road to Pike's Peak. A small marmot was on the side of the road,  apparently grieving the death of his companion, splattered all over the roadway. As we drove past, the little creature stood up on its hind legs as if to wave goodbye.

Ascent to Pike Peak

The sky was cloudy and it didn't look as though we were going to make it to Pike's Peak. We decided to ride part of the way and see how far we would get. Turned out, we got to the top ... and what a trip it was! The first few miles were not too challenging, so we moved on. About half way up the 19 miles, Bob proclaimed this to be "the scariest ride I've ever been on". He's never really known the meaning of "white knuckle driving" until today: we climbed higher and higher, turning 30-degree turns with no visibility, on the edge of precipitous cliffs of rock.

We rode with our windows open, and temperatures fell as we got closer to the summit. It felt like a Minnesota November morning when we reached the top. The wind was blowing under grey skies and snow was forecast for later today. The air didn't seem to be really thin, but I worked fast taking pictures, because the guidebooks advise no longer than 30-40 minutes at the top.

The photos themselves are somewhat disappointing because of fog. However, the experience was truly awesome. Over 14,000 feet above sea level. Pike Peak summit feels like the top of the world! One of life's most memorable experiences and certainly the highlight of this Colorado visit.

Restorative Power of a Pool

I wouldn't use the last hotel pool (the size of a large bathtub) so I wasn't optimistic in this new facility, thinking it would be small. I was so wrong. It is a decent size, and it was empty so I got in a good session. My good temper returned immediately.

We decided to drive downtown but all was quiet on this Labor Day evening, except for a couple of drunks who accosted us in the Walgreen's parking lot. In the store, I noticed that the few customers seemed to have bad teeth and the look of long-term poverty. 

Tired again this evening, though it is not quite 9 o'clock. The air is cool and we'll sleep with an open window.

Yet Another Mountain Road

Bob arranged with the retired female volunteer in one of the Rocky Mountain National Park visitors' centers to take the scenic route to Colorado Springs today. I felt somewhat OD'd on hairpin turns and roads that wind forever to rise only a mile or so, often behind or in front of large trucks or vehicles with trailers, some of them spewing very unpleasant fumes.

This morning, we left sunny Estes Park at about 9:30, headed for the adventures of US7.  By mid-morning, we had veered southeast, and decided to follow a dirt road through the mountain, past piles of discarded appliances and vehicles -- all reminiscent of the movie "Deliverance" -- in a vain search of the lovely little town below. Many other dirt roads led there (all "one way - do not enter"), but thankfully common sense prevailed and we eventually turned around, back to the main drag. We rolled into Nederland, in search of a restroom and gas. By this time, I was not in the best mood, and it was soon to deteriorate.

We got gas in Golden, near Denver. An argument over direction ensued and we ended up driving past a busy city of Denver; we turned south on 25, past the Denver Broncos stadium and yet another missed state capitol. Our little duo was somewhat less dynamic that we had come to expect, and we limped gratefully into Manitou Springs and an almost brand new Comfort Inn. This evening: whatever we can manage. Tomorrow: Garden of the Gods and ... whatever we can manage.

It is a lovely evening and I'm sitting in the full light of the bedroom of our King Suite. Scotch is restoring my humor and I'm looking forward to a little rest.

Higher Altitudes

As soon as the guide in the Colorado Welcome Center mentioned the effects of altitude, Bob felt light headed and short of breath. I talked him off the ledge, but the symptoms returned as soon as he saw the roadsign  proclaiming 7,200 feet.

Yesterday we were at 12,000 feet and I did feel a little "different" but was afraid to say so, lest Bob (the driver) develop labored breathing. I looked up the effects of altitude on the human body: there are indeed effects, and I wasn't imagining the feelings. Now the high altitude notations in recipes (reduce rising agent like baking powder) make a little more sense.

We do seem to be less hungry and alcohol produces a bigger bang for the buck. However, it's clear that we've adapted just fine, heeding advice (from everyone -- it's tedious!) to drink lots of the delicious water. A good thing, because I can't wait to take the train up Pike's Peak in Colorado Springs (14,000 feet).

Our Lady of the Mountains

We just made it to Mass on time, unusual for us, who are always early. The church is wood, not very noticeable from the highway. Unlike Assumption Church in Lake Tahoe, the architecture doesn't take advantage of the beautiful environment -- I had hoped for wonderful distracting views of the mountains.

The priest's homily reflected ultra conservative positions that don't resonate with my own liberal lifeview, but he was so pleasant and likable that I wasn't tempted to walk out. The parish was holding a number of fundraisers, including the sale of Colorado peaches, but they were sold out, to Bob's dismay.

I love going to church in the communities we visit. We always feel at home and welcomed. This was another memorable experience.

Rocky Mountain National Park

A beautiful sunrise! We went to 8 o'clock Mass at Our Lady of the Mountains Church, packed with visitors on this Labor Day Sunday. Rather than stay for the pancake breakfast, we found a local restaurant (the Mountaineer) and enjoyed great meal -- enough to tide us over a long day.

I almost had a panic attack as we pulled out of the hotel: I couldn't find my camera! The last time I had felt this way (short of breath, unable to think or talk) was when my first digital camera died and I had to buy a new one in Sault Ste Marie. We returned to the hotel and there it was, on the desk. Whew. Disaster averted.

The drive to the park was made longer by bumper to bumper traffic to the park entrance. The advantages of being a senior were evident when Bob whipped out his National Parks senior pass and we drove in, free. The beauty of the park is spectacular: one lovely scene after another, all the way to about 12,000 feet, crossing the Continental Divide. I'm ashamed to admit that I didn't even know what the Continental Divide is until yesterday (water east of the Divide flows into the Atlantic; water west of it flows to the Pacific)!

It's a long 48 miles through the park. When we got to Grand Lake, the largest natural lake in Colorado (but very ordinary by Minnesota expectations), we stopped at a deli for a takeout sandwich and had lunch by the lake. It was almost a tailgate party, but we found a picnic table by the water so sat there for our meal. A highlight was seeing a beautiful osprey catch a large fish and fly away with it, perhaps to a high nest that I saw a little later when we turned back up the mountain. Since I had a sandwich in my hand, the picture is only in my mind, but indelibly so.

Fortunately the ride back was 1.5 hours, less than half the time it took us to get to Grand Lake. We're sitting on our comfortable bed enjoying a beverage. Dinner will be later, and small, I think. We're both a little sunburned and weary. It was a wonderful day!

Colorado Welcome

We stopped at the Colorado Welcome Center in Fort Collins, feeling a little road-weary. Soon we were on our way to Estes, via Loveland.

The GPS led us astray and we had to circle back to get to our hotel, Lake Shore Lodge, where our room wasn't ready so we had a drink on the patio. Our beautiful, large room has a patio overlooking the lake and facing the mountains. The sunset was stunningly beautiful, but by then we were feeling the effects of the long journey.

I was in bed from 8 until nearly 6 this morning, and I'm quite sure I got 8 hours sleep, a rarity for me. Amazing what a night's sleep will do for someone!

North Platte to Cheyenne

Our breakfast companions Saturday morning were all dressed in what seemed to be unseasonably warm clothes: jeans, sweatshirts, heavy jackets. Bob and I were, of course, in lightweight summer shirts and shorts, ready for another day in the late summer heat. When we stepped outside, we were greeted by a cold, wintry wind and our overdressed travelling companions suddenly seemed very sensible.

Not too much traffic on I80, just a steady stream of truckers and (mostly) Nebraska vehicles. We crossed into mountain time a little west of North Platte and the countryside gradually lost the character of the plains, becoming more hilly and "western" looking. Some of the cattle in the fields looked ready for the dinner table and I reflected (briefly) on the unpleasant realities of a food supply that includes beef. We stopped for gas just off the entrance ramp to Cheyenne and donned our jackets.

Cheyenne is a small (56,000) city showing signs the effects of a long recession. The downtown, touristy area seems to have a population of homeless and distressed people, probably no more than anywhere else but quite visible. We walked into the Wrangler store but I was so turned off by aggressive sales staff that I turned around and left Bob to contend with the aggressive marketing of western wear (denim, cowboy boots and hat, belts) on his own. He is better in these situations than I ... and left without buying a thing.

I missed visiting my second state capitol but we did enjoy Cheyenne historic union train depot, once the busy hub for east-west/north-south trains. A busy farmer's market in the square drew us to wander among the stalls, and we sampled the best peaches we have ever tasted -- even better than those in Pike Street market in Seattle. Bob chatted easily with a Cheyenne resident, a Detroit area native,  at a table located in the center of the bustling market. After lunch at the Albany Bar and Restaurant -- where we shared a wonderful chicken breast sandwich, we set out for Colorado.

The Great State of Nebraska

We drove slightly southwest over the vast expanse of prairie, through occasionally heavy rain on a freeway full of trucks that splashed up water, making visibility difficult. The harvest had already been completed on many fields, and cornstalks stool tall but empty. When the sun shone, the panoramic view was of more shades of green and gold than I had ever seen before. Breathtaking, almost.

The area around Omaha was busy but very well laid out and easy to navigate. Usually only one choice:: keep going straight. I had hoped to the capitol in Lincoln, but unlike Minnesota's lovely capitol, it is not visible from the freeway. The famous sculpture of the sower will have to wait for another day.

We stopped only once in Nebraska to pick up tourist information and decide on a place to stay. By then, the rain had stopped and the day was heating up again. North Platte was an hour away and we decided to spend the night at one of the city's many hotels. The value of the drive-by became apparent and we rejected our original choice, deciding easily on the Hampton Inn. The room is comfortable; the pool was empty when I first got in yesterday evening, and breakfast is included. There was no partying last night either in or around the hotel!

This is a foggy morning, and the sunrise will be late because we're so far west in the timezone. Sunny weather is forecast so it looks like a good day to be on the road.

Turn Right at Des Moines

We were in Iowa for only a short time. The entry to Iowa from Minnesota is seamless; a regional constant is the reminder that midwestern states feed the world. We passed acres of corn and soybeans, perfectly grown and harvested. State of the art equipment stands ready in the fields, giving witness to the richness of the land and the skill of those who till the soil.  The "Conservative Chronicle" available at a rest stop reminded me of Michele Bachmann's presidential campaign and her Iowa roots.

We headed west on I80 at Des Moines, heading toward Nebraska. It's all starting to look new to me. I have not been this way before.

Rainy September Morning

Slept surprisingly well and was wide awake by 4:30 a.m., but didn't get up until a little after 5. Tasks that seemed daunting late Thursday evening (empty the dishwasher, clean the bathrooms for Chris (home sitter, cat companion), tidy up, put out the trash) were easy to polish off this morning. After loading the car in the rain, we were on the road by 7:20.

There were no signs of early autumn on 35E, only late summer wildflowers and wet, spring green foliage on either side of the freeway. Buck Hill in Burnsville reminded us of the mountains in our near future, but today there was no hint of the ski and snowboard activity that will energize everyone who drives by a few months from now. The traffic north to St. Paul seemed light to me, but heavy to Bob, who doesn't usually witness rush hour in the Twin Cities. The rain was light, but persistent.

The beauty of the drive south on 35E always inspires me: I think about the highway architects and engineers who planned this freeway and nestled it into the Minnesota countryside, preserving the character of the surrounding landscape. Finally, a sign of fall! As we passed  Minnesota wetlands, many looking like lakes after last winter's snow and the heavy rains of spring and summer, we admired shorebirds resting on the Mississippi River flyway, on their way to our own favorite winter destinations on the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts. We entered Iowa, and temperatures soon rose toward their daytime high in the low nineties, and I remembered the last time I made this trip, on a snowy January weekend a few years ago, for the funeral of John Schmidt, the husband of Bob's cousin. This is a more cheerful day, and our spirits are soaring.

West to Colorado

September 2 - 10, 2011